By: NPPD's Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Are you looking for a quick and easy way to keep a small area comfortable during a heat wave or cold snap? Using electric space heaters can be expensive to run and window air conditioners can be difficult to install. Instead, consider purchasing a portable heat pump and accomplish heating and cooling with one single unit. Portable heat pumps work by using electricity and refrigerant to move heat rather than generating it directly. During the heating season, heat is extracted from outside air and transferred indoors through one or two hoses mounted in a window opening. Single-hose units will pull in air from inside the room and exhaust it outside. Dual-hose portable heat pumps will have one hose for pulling air from outside, and a separate hose for expelling air. Dual-hose units recycle indoor air and do not exhaust it outdoors. For this reason, dual-hose units are typically more efficient than single-hose units. When temperatures climb outside, portable heat pumps can reverse this process to provide cooling. Though they are not the perfect solution for all space conditioning needs, portable heat pumps offer advantages. They are: Mobility Unlike window air conditioners, ductless mini split or central air-cooling systems, portable heat pumps are easy to move from room to room. Most have wheels to make one-person relocation simple. Easy to Install Nearly all portable heat pumps come with a window kit that their one or two hoses attach to. By closing the window around the kit’s frame, making provisions for water condensing out of the air and plugging the unit into a standard wall socket, it is ready to heat or cool. No professional installation is required. Inexpensive While comparable in price to a window air conditioner, portable heat pumps are more affordable than ductless mini split or central air-cooling systems. Efficient When it comes to heating, portable heat pumps are two to three times more efficient electric space heaters. While permanently installed cooling systems tend to be more efficient, portable heat pumps are just as, if not more efficient, than window air conditioners, especially when selecting an Energy Star®-certified model. While a portable heat pump is an excellent, energy-efficient choice for renters, temporary use or small-space climate control (approximately 300 to 600 square feet) where installing a permanent unit is not allowed, they do come with some disadvantages: Noise Because the operating components are housed inside the unit, they tend to be louder than ductless mini split or central air-cooling systems. However, they are usually quieter than window air conditioners while operating around 45 to 55 decibels, which is comparable to a quiet-to-normal conversation. Limited Heating Capacity As the temperature drops outside, the amount of heat required to keep the indoor area comfortable increases. Portable heat pumps also do not have the ability to defrost themselves during freezing weather. Therefore, most stop operating when outdoor temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Though that covers about half of the annual hours when heating is needed in our homes, Additional heat sources are necessary when the mercury dips lower. Window Compatibility While hose kits quickly mount into the openings of single-hung, double-hung and sliding glass windows, modifications to the kit’s frame must be made to fit into casement-style windows. Humidity Control Because single-hose units create a negative pressure inside, they pull in unconditioned air from outside through cracks and openings throughout the home. Therefore, a double-hose model is necessary to provide dehumidification. Condensation When operating, condensation (water vapor) collects in a reservoir. This must be manually dumped every few hours or drained through a line. If not, the unit will shut off. To address this, some units have an internal pump to push the condensate through a drain line that exits through the window kit. Limited Capacity Portable heat pumps can only heat or cool a single room at a time. Depending on the size of the room, they may struggle to do so. Larger rooms are more likely to have hot and cold spots that create a less-than-comfortable environment. While portable heat pumps provide a great solution to temporary heating and cooling needs in a single room, other types of heat pump systems bring greater efficiency and comfort when a longer-term solution is desired. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, your local public power provider wants to help you gain the most value from the energy needed to keep comfortable inside. For more energy-saving ideas, including EnergyWiseSM energy efficiency financial incentives, contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com .

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Most homeowners who have heat pumps use them to heat and cool their homes. But a heat pump also can be used to heat water. You may have already seen one of these units in a “big box” or appliance store and wondered what it was and how it worked. Here are the details: Heat pump water heaters use electricity to move heat instead of generating heat directly through electrical resistance. It takes a lot less electricity to transfer heat than it does to generate heat. Therefore, heat pump water heaters can be two to three times more energy efficient than conventional electric resistance water heaters. To move the heat, heat pump water heaters work like a refrigerator in reverse. While a refrigerator pulls heat from their interior and dumps it into the surrounding room, an air-source heat pump water heater pulls heat from the surrounding air and moves it into their internal water tank. Another type of heat pump water heater has indoor and outdoor components that move heat from outside the home. Still others are integrated with other space conditioning heat pump systems, which combine all the required equipment into a single unit located inside home. Stand-alone heat pump water heaters, which contain all the necessary equipment in one unit, require installation in locations that remain in the 40º– 90ºF temperature range year-round. Rooms housing heat pump water heaters should provide at least 500 to 1,000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the unit. As heat is transferred into the hot water tank, cool exhaust air can be vented back into the room or ducted outdoors. Ideal locations for installation are in spaces with excess heat, such as a furnace room. The temperature of the room in which the unit is installed will drop when it is operating by 2 F° to 6 F° and perhaps even more during periods of high demand for hot water.  The energy to feed the heat pump water heater can come from passive solar gain, heat from a conventional heating system, the warming effect of soil surrounding a basement wall, or any other heat source. The cooling of air while the unit is operating is especially advantageous in the summer. If the unit is installed in a basement located in a humid region, it also removes moisture from the air, which reduces and may eliminate the need for a separate dehumidifier. Since the heat pump water heater operates as dehumidifier, a condensate drain must be available. In their “heat pump only” mode, heat pump water heaters cannot heat water as quickly as electric resistance water heaters. In this mode, they can only generate about 8 to 10 gallons per hour. To make up for this basic deficiency in performance, heat-pump water heaters are equipped with electric resistance elements that are energized whenever the heat pump cannot keep up with the demand for hot water. This feature improves the performance of the unit but does reduce its overall efficiency. Most heat-pump water heaters have controls that allow a homeowner to choose one of three modes of operation: •Heat-pump-only mode (the most energy-efficient). •Hybrid mode (heat-pump operation plus electric resistance backup). •Electric-resistance-only mode (a mode that you could choose during cold weather, when you might not want the appliance to cool the space where it is located). A study in the northeast U.S. revealed that households installing a heat pump water heater could save between $40 and $270 per year when compared to using an electric-resistance water heater. Savings calculations were based on a family household that uses 35 gallons of hot water per day, with an electricity cost of 17 cents/kilowatt-hour. Lower end savings were seen when the heat-pump water heater was installed in a bad location (a small, cold room). Conversely, the high end of the savings scale was seen when the unit was installed in a good location (a large, warm room). Your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you make the most from the energy you use to produce hot water in your home or business. For more ideas on saving energy while running your business or home, along with possible EnergyWiseSM energy efficiency financial incentives to help with the cost of upgrading to a heat pump water heater, contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details.

By: Energy Efficiency Program NPPD Manager Cory Fuehrer Have you ever gone over to a friend’s place for a fish dinner and left smelling like fried carp? If so, it could be that their kitchen exhaust hood was not working properly. While commercial kitchens use exhaust systems that are fairly complex, exhaust hoods in most homes are relatively simple. They capture polluted air by drawing it in with a single fan and venting it outside or filtering it before recirculating the air back into the kitchen. In doing so, they reduce the amount of airborne grease, smoke and odors to help protect your walls cabinetry and ceilings. Many kitchen exhaust hoods even assist in removing excess heat or providing additional light over a cooktop or range. Whether you are building a new home, remodeling a kitchen, replacing an old hood or are simply wanting to make the most of your current one, the following factors impact a hood’s effectiveness and efficiency while clearing the air: Types Under-cabinet – Most common type. The fan is usually located in cabinetry above. Wall-mount/Chimney – In addition to the hood, the ducting and often the fan housing are visible. Often matched with high-performance options. Island/Canopy – Ducting extends down from the ceiling over a cooktop. The fan is in the ducting or mounted outside the home. This type requires higher fan capacity due to lack of a wall for smoke containment. Downdraft – Unit is built-in behind or next to the cooktop. This type also requires higher fan capacity due to fumes being drawn downward. Built into microwave – With an overhead microwave, this type is a popular space saver. However, fan capacity is limited. Ducted, Ductless and Convertible Ducted range hoods vent externally, which means they draw kitchen air out of the house through ductwork in the wall, ceiling or floor. External venting is available in all types of range hoods but is particularly common in wall-mount, island, canopy and downdraft types. Ducted range hoods are often labeled as “vented” in product names and specifications. If reducing heat in the kitchen or removing odors is a significant concern, a ducted range hood is recommended. Ductless range hoods filter kitchen air then recirculates it back into the kitchen. Under-cabinet and microwave hoods are most commonly ductless. Ductless range hoods are most common in the under-cabinet and built-in microwave styles. Product specifications will most likely say “recirculation”, indicating it is ductless. As the name implies, a convertible range hood can vent externally or recirculate the kitchen air. Under-cabinet and canopy hoods are the most likely types to be convertible, but keep in mind that kits are available for non-convertible models that make them convertible. Rated CFM The Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM or cfm) rating is a measurement of fan capacity. Hoods over electric ranges or cooktops should have a minimum capacity of 100 CFM per linear foot of appliance. Fan capacity for gas appliances should be a minimum of 1 CFM per 100 British Thermal Units (BTUs) that the stove or cooktop is rated at. (e.g., a 40,000 BTU stove needs 400+ CFM). Note that residential building codes in the state of Nebraska require installation of a makeup air units for kitchen exhaust systems capable of moving 400 CFM or more. Width and Mounting Height The hood must be at least as wide as the stove or cooktop beneath it, if not six inches wider. A 30-inch stove should ideally have a 36-inch hood to capture peripheral smoke and grease, especially for island or canopy installations. For optimal performance, hoods should be mounted 20 to 24 inches above electric ranges and 24 to 30 inches above gas ranges. Your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you make the most of the energy they provide. That includes helping you comfortably create culinary creations while using your kitchen in the most efficient manner possible. In addition, they may offer EnergyWiseSM incentives to reduce the initial costs of efficiency improvements. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Have you heard what the latest gossip around the water cooler is about? The water cooler, itself! Business experts have long debated whether there is value to the chat that occurs when office employees meet during their venture to the device to obtain hot water for tea, coffee or a refreshing glass of cold water. Water cooler conversations tend to revolve around weekend plans, popular TV shows, movies, sports, or office-related, non-work-specific news. While traditional management approaches ranged from discouraging to prohibiting these interactions, research from the University of California, Santa Cruz reveals these interactions are crucial for boosting company culture, improving employee collaboration, fostering social support, and reducing stress. So where did this common office fixture come from? In 1906, Halsey Willard Taylor and Luther Haws were exploring ways to further reduce the deadly impact of typhoid in schoolchildren. Research during the middle of the previous century determined it primarily spread though drinking contaminated water. Observing that schoolchildren were drinking from communal tin cups of water, Hawley invented and placed the water fountains (or bubblers) into schools. In 1909, Haws created the Haws Sanitary Drinking Faucet company and patented his water cooler in 1911. The early water coolers stored water in a sealed glass container and used large blocks of ice to chill it. Shortly before the 1920s, the first five gallon water bottles began to appear and the iconic “upside-down bottle on a cooler” design often associated with 20th-century office life was launched. By 1938, the world’s first ‘self-contained electric water cooler’ was patented that provided internal refrigeration and eliminated the need for ice deliveries. The 1950s and ‘60s saw the introduction of hot and cold-water dispensers, which remain the standard design today. Today’s water coolers also have features such as touchless dispensing sensors, temperature controls, UV sterilization and machine usage tracking. Since sustainability and optimizing employee health have become major business interests with concerns of plastic waste skyrocketing and microplastics entering our bodies, most businesses have or are switching to plumbed and internally filtered water coolers. While these features can significantly add to the unit’s energy use, water coolers that have earned an Energy Star® certification save 22% or more of the energy that an uncertified, conventional model would use. In fact, if all water coolers sold in the U.S. were Energy Star®-certified, the energy cost savings would equate to more than $250 million each year. With the average commercial water cooler typically lasting five to 10 years, total savings would be between $1.25 and $2.5 billion. Your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, has additional ideas of how to efficiently use the electricity they provide. In addition, they may offer EnergyWiseSM incentives to reduce the initial costs of efficiency improvements. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Everyone’s looking for a good deal. There’s no exception when it comes to home improvements, especially if you own an older home. If you find yourself in that category and are planning a major renovation, consider that adding insulation during your project often pays for the additional cost with energy savings in two to five years. According to Energy Star®, homeowners can save an average of 15% on heating and cooling costs by adding insulation in attics, floors over crawl spaces, and accessible basement rim joists. Adding insulation can also increase the value of your home. Remodeler Magazine’s “Cost vs. Value Report,” which breaks down both the cost and return on investment of many home improvement options, noted that adding fiberglass attic insulation increased home value by an average of 17%. Considering the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association estimates that almost 90% of existing U.S. homes are under-insulated, familiarizing yourself with the following most-common types might be a good place to start. Blanket Insulation While most commonly sold in rolls or batts of spun fiberglass filaments, blanket insulation is also produced from cotton, cellulose and mineral wool. They’re made in various thicknesses, but usually in the standard widths of 15 and 23 inches so they easily fill the cavities between joists or studs. Blanket insulation is also ideal for unfinished attics. Not only is it easy to cut and install, but more than one layer can be installed to achieve the desired level of insulation. Loose-Fill and Blown-In Insulation Since attics often have limited headroom and numerous obstructions, loosefill insulation is a popular choice. It can easily be blown on top of existing insulation and other obstructions like ducting, can light fixtures and cross beams. Rock wool, cellulose and fiberglass are the most common materials used to make loose-fill insulation. Foam Board or Rigid Foam Foam board is a rigid panel made from polystyrene or polyisocyanurate. It provides a high level of thermal resistance (R-value) per inch when compared to other types of insulation. It can easily be installed in a variety of applications, including walls, roofs and floors. Because it provides a vapor barrier when properly sealed, it can help control moisture, reduce air leaks and keep pests from invading your home. Because of its rigidity, it's self-supporting, doesn't sag and provides continuous insulation, which effectively blocks heat transfer better than batts. Spray Foam and Foamed-In-Place Insulation Similar to foam board, spray foam insulation and foamed-in-place insulation is a liquid polyurethane plastic that is sprayed directly on the area being insulated. As the liquid is sprayed, it expands and hardens to create a dense foam that seals gaps and forms an air-tight vapor barrier. This significantly improves energy efficiency since it significantly reduces heat transfer while stopping air leaks in walls, attics and crawlspaces at the same time. There are two main types of spray foam insulation: open-cell, which is less dense and good for soundproofing; and closed cell, which is denser, offers higher R-values, adds structural strength and resists moisture. Adding insulation can be one of the most cost-effective projects you can do to make your home energy efficient. If you primarily use electricity to heat your home and there are six inches or less of insulation in your attic, your local public power provider may have an EnergyWiseSM incentive available once installation is complete. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details. Your local utility, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you get the most value from the energy needed to keep your home comfortably warm.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Is this the winter you finally have had enough of shoveling now? Data analyzed by the Center for Injury Research and Policy found that annually, snow shoveling leads to about 100 deaths and 11,500 emergency room visits in the U.S. Of those treated for injuries, about 15% resulted from the shovel itself. Maybe it’s time to consider an electric snowblower? Cordless, battery-electric blowers can clear paths up to 24 inches wide through as much as 20 inches of snow. Unlike their gas-powered counterparts, they require very little maintenance, run relatively quietly, are usually lighter and start with just a push of a button. When it comes to one of the quickest, least labor-intensive ways to dig out after a big snowstorm, they are hard to beat. Also, consider the following additional advantages: Single-Stage and Two-Stage Electric snowblowers are available in both single-stage and two-stage models. Single-stage units are lighter and easy to maneuver. They use a single auger to both scoop and discharge snow and are best suited for light to moderate snowfalls. Two-stage snowblowers have an additional impeller, which helps throw the snow further while handling heavier snow more effectively. Power Source Unlike their underpowered, corded predecessors, most electric snowblowers today run off rechargeable batteries for about 30 to 45 minutes on a single charge, which is about how long a tank of gasoline powers a gas snowblower. Operating time can be extended with multiple batteries. Compact and Easy to Store Electric snowblowers take up significantly less space, making them ideal for garages with limited storage space. Maintenance Unlike gas-powered units that require oil changes, tune-ups and gasoline stabilization or draining for extended periods of storage, electric units require almost no maintenance. To keep an electric snowblower running season after season, simply store the charger and batteries indoors when they aren’t being charged or used. Since batteries do not hold the same amount of charge when the temperature drops below freezing, storing and charging them indoors ensures the greatest run time. Both electric and gas snowblowers last around 10 years with proper care and maintenance. However, electric snowblowers require much less effort to maintain. Cost Gasoline-powered snowblowers usually have a higher purchase price, as well as fuel and maintenance costs when compared to electric snowblowers. This is especially true when evaluating smaller or single-stage units.  Your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, also offers EnergyWiseSM incentives to their customers who purchase an electric snowblower. Contact them or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more details

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer In 2001, the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory published the results of the National Human Activity Pattern Survey. It revealed that, on average, Americans spend 87% of their time indoors and an additional 6% in enclosed vehicles. In 1800, 90% of Americans worked outside. 200 years later, less than 20% did. As more of our daily lives have been spent inside, the number of people with respiratory diseases, heart disease, certain types of cancer and/or other health problems has dramatically increased. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) defines Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) as the air quality within and around buildings and structures, especially as it relates to the health and comfort of building occupants. Understanding and controlling common pollutants indoors can help reduce the risk of indoor health concerns. While a great deal of energy can be used to purify indoor air, the EPA suggests three basic strategies to mitigate the problems while minimizing the impact on energy costs. Source Control Quite often, the most effective way to improve IAQ is to eliminate individual sources of pollution or to reduce their emissions. Some sources, like those that contain asbestos, can be sealed or enclosed. Others, like toxic and other byproducts from gas stoves or furnaces, can be adjusted or replaced to decrease the amount of emissions. Many activities such as cooking, painting, paint stripping, welding, soldering, or sanding can be taken outside or performed in a mechanically ventilated area. Smoking should never be done inside. Pets can be bathed to reduce their dander. Excess moisture in basements and other high humidity rooms can be managed with a dehumidifier, if necessary, to lower relative humidity to 50% or lower. In many cases, source control is also a more energy and cost-efficient approach to improving IAQ than increasing ventilation. Ventilation As long as the outside air is fairly pollutant-free, bringing fresh air into the home is an effective approach to lowering the concentrations of indoor air pollutants. However, ventilation often requires filtering, heating, cooling, dehumidifying or humidifying. Some homes, especially much older ones, are “leaky” and exchange plenty of indoor and outdoor air through gaps and cracks around foundations, windows siding and attics. But others, especially newer ones, tend to be sealed tightly and require additional ventilation. While opening a window and operating a ventilation fan is a simple way to bring in outside air, considerable energy use is necessary to make the air comfortable. For these homes, installing an energy recovery ventilator that replaces indoor stale air with fresh outdoor air while transferring heat into or out of the incoming air depending on the season is the most efficient and practical solution. Air cleaning Research shows that filtration can be an effective supplement to source control and ventilation. It turns out that 67% of U.S. homes already have a central heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system. If the system’s blower fan is powerful enough, a filter can be installed to create a highly effective whole house air purifier. Filters are rated on a Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV) scale that ranges from 1 to 20. The higher the number, the smaller the particles it can effectively filter. A MERV rating of at least 13 is necessary to capture 95% of dust, pollen and smoke particles, which can be as small as 0.3 microns in size. High-Efficiency Particulate Air or HEPA filters have a MERV rating of at least 17. However, not all HVAC blowers are powerful enough to overcome the increasing air resistance of the filter as the MERV rating increases. Always check with a certified HVAC professional before installing a filter with a higher MERV rating than your system currently uses. Another way to filter air in a single room or area is to use portable air cleaners, also known as air purifiers or air sanitizers. A standard room air cleaner, operating continuously, can use 250 to 500 kilowatt-hours a year in electricity. This is more than the energy used by some new refrigerators! Note that the energy efficiency of an air purifier is determined by its Clean Air Delivery Rate-to-Watt (CADR/Watt) ratio, where a higher number means more efficiency. Look for a rating above 1.9 for smaller units and a rating above 2.9 for units designed to provide 150 cubic feet or more of filtered air per minute. For more detailed and extensive information about IAQ, The EPA provides “The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality.” In addition to expanding on the importance of IAQ in your home, it offers additional ways to mitigate poor quality air and where to go for professional help. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, your local public power provider is happy to help you explore the most efficient way to keep the air in your home or business healthy and clean. Contact them or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more details.

As cold weather begins to set in, many people retreat to their garage to escape the chill. As do vehicles, so drivers hope to avoid scraping off ice and snow in the morning. If there’s any space remaining, ongoing projects are moved in with hopes of finishing them soon or carrying them over until spring. Closing up the doors and windows, many start using supplemental heat to make their garage, shop or shed even more hospitable. Propane tanks are filled. Pilot lights are ignited. Space heaters are plugged in. Then, without much thought, thermostats are turned up to drive away the chill. Unless folks remember how to manage this extra use of energy, they may be shocked when their first winter utility bills arrive or the fuel tank out back is empty before expected. Usually the garage, shop or shed is the least energy efficient space at a residence. A typical two-car garage measures 480 square feet, or about 20 percent of the size of the average U.S. home. It is often the least insulated and uses the least efficient heating systems. Yet, some are taken back in the middle of winter when keeping these areas at 50°F or higher increases their heating costs by 50% or more. Before taking up refuge in your garage this winter and cranking up the heat, consider a few of the following opportunities to keep your energy use from literally going through the roof. Insulate the walls While most people insulate their garage attics before heating them, many older homes (and even some newer ones) were not built with insulation in the walls of the garage. While most have outside siding, sheathing and a layer of particle board to keep elements out, these materials do little to retain heat. Insulating can be as easy as tacking fiberglass insulation between exposed joists. If your garage walls are finished, insulation can be blown in through a small hole in the drywall or paneling. Caulk between the walls and the concrete floor Most garages were not built using compressible foam between the lower framing and concrete floor. Over time, the framing can swell, shrink and move, leaving gaps which will allow air from the outside to leak in. You can either use a foam sealant or a latex/silicone-based caulk to seal this often-overlooked area.  Seal the door between the house and garage If your garage is attached to the house, the door leading into the home is often a major source of cold air leaking into the conditioned area. If your garage is detached, the passenger door may be letting much of your garage heat escape. Check to ensure weather-stripping is installed around the entire door frame, and that it’s intact, pliable and provides a snug seal. Also, ensure your threshold and door sweep are sealing at the bottom. Insulate the garage door Even if your garage has properly-insulated walls, you may have uninsulated garage door(s). This negates much of the benefit from insulated walls. A new, insulated door will cost several hundreds of dollars or more, but will provide a clean appearance. A lower cost solution is to purchase foam board insulation and install it on the inside panels of your existing doors. Remember, you must cut the foam board to a size a little smaller than your garage door’s panels so the insulation doesn’t smash together as the door rolls up and down. Switch to LED lighting Compared to traditional, incandescent lights, LEDs use only 10 percent of the electricity to produce identical illumination levels. Compared to fluorescent lighting, LEDs use 40 to 60 percent less energy for the same amount of light. More importantly, fluorescent lights produce less and less light as the temperature drops. Many fluorescent lights will not even operate below 10°F. In contrast, LEDs slightly increase their light output the colder it becomes. Replace older appliances If you have an older model refrigerator or freezer in your garage, it may cost more money for you to operate it over time than it would to invest into a new unit. Although the energy savings are smaller in the winter, consider how hot your garage becomes in the summer. If there is very little in the garage refrigerator or freezer, try moving items to an indoor refrigerator or freezer. Then, unplug the garage unit to save electricity. For additional ideas on how you can reduce the cost of heating your garage this winter, contact your local electric utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com. You may even find you are eligible for EnergyWiseSM incentives for helping with the cost of other energy-saving home improvements.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Have you ever reminisced about how hot a summer or how cold a particular winter was? It seems to be human nature to compare current outdoor temperatures to weather we experienced in the past. One of the late Johnny Carson’s favorite ways to set up a weather joke was to start by saying, “It was so hot today…” Having seen the routine many times, his audience would boisterously reply in unison, “How hot was it?!” Obviously, his reply was the punchline to which everybody laughed. But what if there was a way to quantify how hot or cold it truly was in order to compare it to other days, months or years in the past? Actually, there is and it’s called a “degree day”. Degree days are a measurement of how cold or warm a particular location was. A degree day compares the daily mean temperature (average of the day’s high and low outdoor temperature) to a standard temperature. In the U.S., that’s usually 65° Fahrenheit (F). The more extreme the outside temperature, the higher the number of degree days. A higher amount of degree days generally results in higher energy use for space heating or cooling. More specifically, heating degree days (HDDs) are a measure of how cold the temperature was on a given day or during a period of days. For example, a winter day with a mean temperature of 30°F has 35 HDDs. Two such cold days in a row have 70 HDDs for the two-day period. If the daily mean temperature is greater than 65°F, no HDDs are associated with that particular day. On the other hand, cooling degree days (CDDs) are a measure of how hot the temperature was on a given day. If a summer day had a mean temperature of 80°F, 15 CDDs would be recorded. If the next day had a mean temperature of 85°F, 20 CDDs would be assigned to it. The total CDDs for the two days is 35 CDDs. By totaling HDDs and CDDs for entire months or years, comparisons to previous months or years can be made. Say you’d like to evaluate an average of how much energy it might take to heat and cool your home. Degree days, along with your heating and cooling system’s efficiencies and other factors can be included in this equation to provide a fairly accurate estimate. Degree days also provide possible insight as to why energy bills were higher or lower than anticipated. The Nebraska Department of Water, Energy, and Environment (NDWEE) provides historical degree day and degree day normals on a monthly basis for 12 cities around the state in addition to the state's overall average degree days. Degree day normals are 30–year averages over a baseline comparison period. Currently, NDWEE uses 1991–2020 for the baseline. Nebraska's overall HDD normal for a year is 6281. The CDD normal for a year is 996. (Note that commas are not used degree day data.) In comparison, Hawaii's HDD normal is 1 and its CDD normal is 4766. Hawaiians use almost no energy for heating but need to use huge amounts if they wish to keep indoor spaces below 80°F. In contrast, Colorado's HDD and CDD normals are 7053 and 329 respectively. While our neighbors to the west use a little more energy than us for heating, they require only about one-third of the energy to keep cool. In the 2024/2025 season, Nebraska's HDD totaled 5956, which was 325 HDD less than normal. This indicates last winter in Nebraska was about 5% warmer than normal. For the upcoming winter, the “Old Farmer's Almanac” forecasts above-normal temperatures in the Cornhusker state. By the end of next June, we should know if the prediction was right. In the meantime, when a friend claims the winter of 2018/2019 was the coldest they remember, you can prove the winter of 1978/1979 was actually the coldest in more than 50 years.  Regardless of what the upcoming winter is like, your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, may have an EnergyWiseSM incentive available when you upgrade your heating, ventilation and air conditioning system’s efficiency. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more details.