By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer If you’ve ever lived through a few Nebraska winters in an old house with single-pane windows, you’ve likely observed the exquisite and ornate artwork by “Jack Frost”. Painted overnight, this left-behind artistry of frosty, fern-like patterns seemed to magically appear on the interior side of windows on the coldest of winter mornings. Window frost has become far less prevalent in current times due to the advancement of double-glazing. These designs may be pretty, but they’re not something you should be happy to see! Rather, it’s a warning that your home is literally losing heat right out the window. While window replacement may be the best solution in the long run, it’s usually the most expensive. If new windows aren’t in the budget, here are a few suggestions that come with a lower price tag: Storm windows If you’re still in a home that only has single-pane windows, give strong consideration to installing storm windows. This will cut the transfer of heat through your single panes in half. While acrylic or plexiglass units may cost as little as $80 per window, expect to pay $125 to $415 per replacement, plus $30 to $80 per hour for professional installation. Window insulation kits If storm windows are still outside of your budget or if your double-pane windows seem drafty on cold, windy days, install window insulation kits. Mounted on the interior or exterior, per window costs start around $6 and can usually be self-installed. Though you won’t be able to open your window until it’s removed, it effectively seals the window and stops air leaks. Insulated Shades According to the U.S. Department of Energy, insulated cellular shades are typically considered to have the highest R-values of all window coverings. The air pockets in the honeycomb cross-sections act as insulators, increasing the R-value and reducing the conduction of heat through the window. During the heating season, tightly installed cellular shades can reduce heat loss through windows by 40% or more. While high-end models may cost as much as $250 per window, less-expensive models that are just as efficient start around $25. Caulking/sealing Collectively, air leaks from and around windows can contribute up to 30% of a home's heating needs. Obviously, sealing these leaks provides huge energy savings! Homeowners generally pay about $50 per average-size, double-hung window to be professionally caulked. However, many find this project easy enough to do themselves. In that case, the average window will require a little less than a tube of silicone-based caulk at a cost starting around $9. Especially in older homes, the gaps between the window frame and window cavity were not properly sealed during installation. While “retro sealing” requires removal of the interior trim, low expansion foam does not distort or bow window and door frames when applied properly and provides an exceptional seal. Costs range from $1.25 to $4 per linear foot when hiring a professional, while a Do-It-Yourself project could cost as little as $0.05 to $0.20 per linear foot. Locks and latches Here’s the simplest, least expensive way to increase window efficiency: use the sash locks or latches. For double-hung and sliding windows, this tightens the sashes together. With casement windows, the sash is tightened into the frame. Either way, air leakage is reduced or eliminated. If your windows don’t have sash locks, most hardware stores offer them at prices starting around $15. Southwest Public Power District, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you keep warm this winter season as effectively and efficiently as possible. To find additional ways to save energy every day, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer For something as ubiquitous as electric lighting, it may be hard to imagine a time when our homes were without it. However, using electricity for residential illumination only became common in in the United States during the 1940s. Since then, we’ve been extending our days into our nights, often with a flick of a switch. Consider that almost everyone has a light or a number of lights they rely on to nurse their night owl tendencies. Why wouldn’t you want efficiency, quality and the most overall value from those essential fixtures? Here are a few of the most common, including opportunities for their improvement: Ceiling fixtures Around 2500 BC, the ancient Egyptians began using the first known ceiling lights. Made from clay, these lamps burned animal fat, bees wax or plant-based oils including olive, sesame and grape-seed. Fast-forwarding to the 1950’s, almost all residential ceiling lights required incandescent bulbs. While much safer and efficient than producing light from combustion, about 90% of the electricity they consumed produced heat rather than light. Today, homeowners can select light-emitting diode (LED) replacement bulbs that require six to seven times less electricity to produce the same amount of light while lasting up to 12 times longer. Another option consumers have is to install fully dimmable LED replacement bulbs and the appropriate dimmer switch. By doing so, users can adjust light levels to their desired effect. For even greater energy efficiency and longevity, consider replacing an old fixture with a solid-state LED fixture. Many are also fully dimmable. Solid-state fixtures have embedded LEDs so bulb replacement is no longer necessary. Plug-in lamps It is common to leave a wall or table lamp on for someone needing to pass through an area of the home after everyone else has gone to bed. In 1902, bulbs with two carbon filaments were created to allow for adjustable lighting levels. Shortly thereafter, manufacturing of lamps with multi-level switches allowed homeowners to select multiple illumination levels. This reduced the amount of electricity used when minimal levels of illumination were appropriate. With a simple twist of the switch, full lighting levels could be restored. As with other socket-type fixtures, improving efficiency is as simple as replacing older incandescent bulbs with three-way LED replacement lamps. Outdoor sconces and pathway lights Especially as we enter the winter season and our nights become longer, exterior lighting becomes a matter of maintaining safety. Sidewalks can become snow or ice-covered, which creates slipping hazards. While converting these to LED is an easy option to improve efficiency, when was the last time you cleaned these fixtures? Over the past forty years, The Illuminating Engineering Society has commissioned several luminaire dirt depreciation studies to find that outdoor fixtures can lose 11 to 29 percent of their light output due to outdoor environments. A simple way to reestablish their lighting levels is to add “fixture” cleaning to your fall routine. After a season of dusty winds, lawn mowing and plants pollenating, this is the perfect time to restore their functionality. Plug-in lights How easy is it to plug a small night-light into an electric socket to provide a little extra illumination where you need it? Though they may only require between 2 and 7 watts of power, many operate continuously and do not switch off during the day. Over the course of a year, they can double the amount of energy needed to provide that small amount of extra safety and security. Instead, install an LED night light with a photosensor switch. Most require one watt or less of power to operate and automatically switch “on” or “off” depending on the amount of light from other sources. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, Southwest Public Power District wants to help you effectively and efficiently light up your night when and where you need it! For additional ways you can save energy every day, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer While demand for tankless water heaters continues to increase, more than 95% of homes have conventional storage tank heaters installed. About half use electric resistance or heat pump technology to produce hot water, while the other half uses natural gas or propane. If you’re like most, the only time you think about your water heater is when water fails to come out of the faucet or the tank starts to leak. Most homeowners overlook the importance of regular maintenance, which can lead to decreased efficiency, higher energy bills and premature replacement. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) estimates the average product lifetime for storage tank water heaters to be around 15 years. By annually doing the routine maintenance described below, you can help assure your water heater provides the efficiency and longevity you expect. Before starting, use a thermometer to identify your hot water temperature at the faucet located furthest from the hot water heater. Most water heater manufacturers preset thermostats at 140º Fahrenheit (F). The DOE recommends a setpoint of 120°F to optimize efficiency, slow mineral buildup and reduce corrosion. Temperatures lower than this can pose a slight risk of allowing bacterial growth, while temperatures above 140ºF significantly increase inefficiency from standby heat losses and create scalding risks. For every 10 degrees the temperature is lowered, you can expect to save up to 5% in water heating energy use. Next, take safety precautions. This should always be your top priority. Before beginning: 1. Turn off the power: For electric water heaters, switch off the circuit breaker. For gas-fired units, turn the gas valve to the “pilot” position. 2. Identify the cold-water line supplying the water heater and close it. 3. Wait a few hours after turning off the power to allow the water in the tank to cool. 4. Wear gloves and goggles to protect from hot water and debris. 5. If you have a gas water heater, ensure the area is well-ventilated to prevent the buildup of harmful gases. Now, perform the following maintenance steps: 1. Test the Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve. The TPR valve is a critical safety device that releases internal pressure if it becomes too high. To test it: a. Place a bucket under the discharge pipe connected to the TPR valve. b. Lift the valve’s tab to release some water. c. If water flows freely and stops when you release the tab, the valve is working correctly. If not, the valve needs to be replaced. 2. For electric resistance and heat pump water heaters, inspect and replace the anode rod if it is less than half-inch in diameter. The anode rod attracts corrosive elements in the water, thus protecting the tank. 3. Flush the tank to remove sediment. Sediment buildup can reduce your heater’s hot water volume, require longer runtimes to provide hot water and corrode elements in electrical units. To flush the tank: a. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. b. Open the valve and let the water drain into a bucket and not a floor drain. Sediment could plug the floor drain, creating another problem. c. Once the tank is empty, briefly open the cold-water supply to stir up any remaining sediment. d. Continue flushing until the water runs clear. Close the drain valve, disconnect the hose, and refill the tank. Double-check to assure the TPR valve is closed to prevent flooding the floor. 4. If necessary, adjust the temperature setting. a. Locate the thermostat. While they are often installed on the bottom exterior of gas-powered units, they are usually located behind access panels on electric units. Also, electric units usually have two (top and bottom) thermostats. b. Adjust the dial in the direction you want your hot water temperature to be. You may need to use a screwdriver to adjust the dial. Most thermostats do not have markings that exactly correspond to the desired temperature. Therefore, small adjustments followed by waiting a couple of hours and checking the temperature at the faucet may be necessary to establish the desired temperature. c. Since electric hot water heaters usually have two thermostats, assure both are adjusted to the same setpoint. d. Remember to turn the water heater off or set the thermostat to its lowest setting if you’ll be away from home for more than three days. Southwest Public Power District, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help keep you effectively and efficiently in hot water! For other ways you can save energy while running your household or business, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer During this time of the year, many are switching their thermostats from “cooling” to “heating” mode. This is also a good time to check and change filters in heating and cooling (HVAC) systems. Some may have not been replaced since the start of the cooling season or longer. But how important could a filter be if your HVAC system still seems to provide adequate heating and cooling? Consider the following potential impacts: Inefficient heating and cooling The whole reason you have an HVAC system is to keep comfortable inside. Dirty filters reduce airflow and the system’s ability to condition the air in your home. According to the Department of Energy, a furnace or air conditioner with a clogged filter can use 15 percent more energy than one operating with a clean one. Higher cost of utility bills Every year, energy efficiency professionals start hearing concerns about the high cost of utilities after homeowners and renters receive their first bills after an extended cold period. An inefficient HVAC system only makes these bills higher. Uneven temperatures inside Most duct systems are designed with the assumption that, with a clean filter, the furnace or air handler will move an adequate volume of air to keep temperatures balanced throughout your home. Diminished air flows due to a dirty filter often result in a room or rooms not receiving the same amount of conditioned air as others. Short cycling or equipment failure Reduced air flow due to a dirty filter can cause your heat exchanger to overheat and shut off before your thermostat’s setpoint is reached. Over a relatively short period of time, the HVAC system will continue to cycle on and off. If this happens too often, the system’s electronic "limit switch" can fail, and the furnace won't fire up at all. Now, on top of higher utility bills, a HVAC technician will leave one for parts and labor. Of course, Murphy’s Law states this will occur on one of the coldest days of the year and after normal business hours to optimize the technician’s fees. A similar problem can occur in the middle of summer. A clogged filter can cause the evaporator coil to freeze up because not enough air is moving through it to remove condensation produced during the cooling process. This seems to inevitably occur to filter abusers over the Fourth of July weekend in order to once again, optimize the HVAC technician’s fees. Also, dirt that gets past a filter can also make its way into the fan motor and other parts, causing damage to those components. As if the repair bill didn’t cost enough! Puts the burden on your lungs Relying on your lungs to filter out all the contaminants that can potentially be in indoor air could mean you find yourself sick or feeling ill more often. Those contaminants might include: dust, mites, spores, mold, ash, pollen, pet dander, bug parts, hair, lint, tobacco smoke, food particles, pesticides, paint vapors or fumes from cleaning products. A clean filter helps remove these contaminants to create a healthier home. Changing your filter once a year is probably not often enough. However, if you’re not currently changing your filter at all, it’s a start. Some heating and cooling experts recommend replacing your filter every month. While this practice may ensure you never operate your system with a dirty filter, you may be throwing a good filter away prematurely if your indoor air is relatively clean. Instead, check filters monthly for one year until you understand how often needs to be replaced. Some do may require monthly replacement, but if your system operates very little, such as during mild months, you may get additional use from the same filter. Also note that some filters are designed to last multiple months. Only through observation and following manufacturers’ recommendations can you best gauge optimal replacement frequency. Not sure which filter to select? Visit with your HVAC technician or retail expert to assure your selection provides the best filtration possible without negatively impacting your system’s performance. Southwest Public Power District and Nebraska Public Power District want to help you make the most of the energy they provide you. That includes helping you keep your home’s heating and cooling system running efficiently. For other ideas on making your home EnergyWiseSM, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.nppd.com.

By: Sustainable Energy Consultant Brandon Gardels Air compressors have been a versatile tool over the years and compressed air has been one of the driving forces of modern-day life. From simply airing up a tire to a plethora of applications in heavy industrial processes, compressed air has a wide range of uses. However, compressed air as an energy source is inherently inefficient. As much as 80% of the electric energy going into compressors is lost as heat during the compression process. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), a typical compressed air system requires approximately 7 8 horsepower (hp) of electric power just to operate a 1 hp air motor. In manufacturing and industrial facilities with intensive compressed air use, it is often referred to as the “fourth utility consuming 30% or more of all electricity used. Implementing variable speed drives with air compressors allows the compressor’s operating speed to ramp up or down to match the demand for compressed air. This yields very significant energy savings when compared to a fixed speed compressor that operates at a constant level regardless of the facility’s demand. Compressed air systems are usually complex and must be diligently operated and maintained to avoid excessive energy use. In many cases, even small adjustments can result in large energy savings. For instance, according to the DOE, lowering pressure settings by 2 Pounds per Square Inch Gauge PSIG results in 1% energy savings. Also, lowering the compressor’s inlet temperature of ambient air by 10° Fahrenheit results in a 2% savings. Cumulatively, adjustments like these can provide very significant energy savings, especially in facilities running hundreds or even thousands of compressor hp continuously. Further lowering efficiency, compressed air systems are also susceptible to leaking. The hissing of leaking air is the sound of energy wasted! Complex systems commonly include many couplings, hoses, fittings, pressure regulators, condensate traps, valves, pipe joints, etc., which can degrade or corrode and develop leaks in multiple locations. Therefore, it is very important to have a regular maintenance plan for continually fixing leaks in the compressed air distribution system. According to the Compressed Air Challenge, an advocate group for the efficient use of compressed air, a single 1/8-inch hole in a typical system cost around $2,095 in lost energy per year, assuming continuous operation and electricity at $0.05 per kilowatt hour. When compressed air is only occasionally used, the most practical method to save energy is to turn off the compressor after it is needed and disconnect or fix leaky air lines. In addition, replacing pneumatic tools with electric motor driven alternatives generally results in energy savings. Consider the portability of electric battery powered tools as another major advantage over pneumatic tools consumers may have relied on in the past. Large commercial and industrial facilities should work with a professional contractor or consultant to complete a compressed air system audit and baseline study. They may identify ways to save thousands of dollars through maintenance or new equipment. Compressed air projects that result in energy efficiency improvements may even qualify for the EnergyWise SM Industrial Process Incentive Program through local participating utilities. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, Southwest Public Power District wants to help their customers gain the most benefit from the electricity they provide. For additional ideas on how to make cost-effective efficiency improvements to your home or business, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more information.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer The U.S. Energy Information Administration’s 2020 Residential Energy Consumption Survey indicates that homes in our part of the Midwest consume nearly 9% of their electricity completing laundry. In addition to providing energy savings, all-in-one washer/dryers might provide solutions to other modern life challenges, such as appliance space or electrical circuit limitations. They may even help those who don’t enjoy transferring wet, heavy clothes from the washer to the dryer! All-in-ones are hardly new. Bendix Home Appliances introduced the first combination washer/dryer in 1953. These single front-loading machines wash and dry clothes in a single, sealed drum. Washing and drying can either be done in tandem or individually. But it wasn’t until the start of the 21st century that heat pump technology was added to make these units highly energy efficient compared to separate washer and dryer pairs. Washer/dryer combos wash clothes no differently than traditional washers. But those that use heat pump technology for drying provide energy savings of at least 28% for ENERGY STAR®-certified models. Since this technology evaporates the water out of clothes, then condenses that vapor before sending it down the drain, most do not require venting to outside the home. In 2020, General Electric conducted a survey and found the average consumer leaves clothes in the washer 130 minutes after the final cycle before transferring them to the dryer. Since washer dryer combinations automatically switch between the two processes, clothes won’t linger between cycles because someone forgot to transfer them. Combination units require much less space than traditional washer/dryer pairs, not only by being a single unit, but also by containing drums 1.6 to 4.8 cubic feet in size. By comparison, traditional dryers may have drums sizing from 7 to 9 cubic feet. Apartment dwellers often appreciate having that extra space for something else. Some units connect to a standard 110-volt outlet. Though standard clothes washers require the same, an additional 220-volt outlet must be available for traditional electric dryers. Not to mention, traditional electric dryers may have a different plug configuration than an existing 220-volt outlet accepts. All-in-one washer dryers are easy to find on-line or at appliance and other big box stores. However, do they really make doing laundry easier? Because some of their benefits may also be drawbacks, that may be a wash (haha). In one test comparing a manufacturer’s all-in-one heat pump washer/dryer against one of their traditional washer and dryer pairs, the all-in-one machine only consumed half as much energy. While washing took about the same time to complete, the all-in-one washer/dryer took 3½ hours to dry the 12-pound laundry load. The traditional dryer dried the same size load in less than an hour. Sequencing laundry loads can also be more time consuming. Since washer dryer combinations require users to first wash, then dry loads, they cannot simultaneously start washing the next load until the first is finished with the drying cycle. This can create unending wash days in larger households especially considering combination units often have smaller drums. Another consideration is how washer/dryer combinations use heat pump technology to operate. While drying, they exhaust cool air as part of the process. This can have an effect similar to an air conditioner. While often appreciated in the summer months, that can be a different story in the winter. A final note to think about: combination units generally cost more to purchase ($1,000 to $3,500), although all-in-one units with heat pump technology may qualify for some tax rebates. Southwest Public Power District, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, proudly provides the power you need to keep up with the laundry. For other ways you can run your home or business efficiently, Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more ideas.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer As the heat of summer cranks up, so do the central air conditioners and heat pumps across Nebraska. In fact, approximately 90% of homes in our state have one of these central cooling systems. The vast majority have a compressor unit that buzzes outside as the system removes heat from inside. But what if that buzzing stopped on the hottest of days? The Air Conditioning Contractors of America states that about 85% - 90% of residential heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) replacements are performed on an emergency basis. This is to be expected since those days stress HVAC systems the most. Proper maintenance of your cooling system helps ensure a longer, more energy efficient life, and your local electric utility can provide an incentive when you have a professional HVAC technician perform a cooling system tune up. But inevitably, the day will come when you ask yourself, “Should I have it repaired again or replace it?” Rather than waiting until sweltering heat brings your unit down, start thinking today about the following: System age Most HVAC equipment manufacturers will say outdoor central air conditioning and air-source heat pump units should last around 15 to 20 years if properly maintained. Other factors influencing longevity include correct sizing, proper installation, temperature setting preferences, environmental exposure and geographical location. If your outdoor unit is more than 10 years old, start familiarizing yourself with replacement options and costs. Frequency of repairs Look back at your unit’s history to gain some insight of its future. Does it seem like your system has needed to undergo repair work in addition to maintenance year after year? Have a number of unforeseen problems popped up the past few years? If your cooling system has had a difficult life, it’s not likely to suddenly get easier as time goes on. The $5,000 rule Some repairs can easily cost more than $1,000. Try using the “$5,000 rule” when considering whether to replace the unit. Simply multiply the age of the outdoor unit with the estimated repair cost. If that amount is more than $5,000, it might be time to replace the unit. R-22 refrigerant Older air conditioners generally require R-22 refrigerant, which is known to cause damage to the environment. Also, the price for R-22 has increased astronomically! By January 1, 2010, the U.S. banned the production and importation of R-22. As a result, manufacturers of heat pump and air conditioning equipment redesigned their systems to accommodate R-410A, a chlorine-free refrigerant. Since 2015, R-410A has become the standard for residential air conditioning. Energy efficiency The U.S. Department of Energy began enforcing minimum efficiency standards for HVAC equipment in 1992. For cooling, residential heat pumps and central air-conditioners were required to have a minimum seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) of 10. By 2006, that minimum efficiency level was increased to a SEER rating of 13. Just recently, the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2 (SEER2) testing procedure was developed to better reflect current field conditions. Effective January 1, 2023, new central air conditioners and heat pumps are required to meet or exceed a 13.4 SEER2 rating. Today, some units exceed a SEER2 rating of 27. In general, the higher the SEER2 rating, the better the efficiency. Southwest Public Power District, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, recognizes the importance of keeping your home cool this summer. To help with those associated costs, they offer the EnergyWiseSM Cooling System Tune-Up and High Efficiency Heat Pump Incentive Programs. For further details, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more information.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Of the more than one million food service businesses in the United States, the National Restaurant Association estimates more than 260,000 are full-service restaurants. Considering the average restaurant serves about 100 customers per day, that means a lot of dirty dishes! Not surprisingly, pre-rinsing, washing and sanitizing consumes the largest amount of hot water in commercial kitchens. Unlike most residential kitchens, commercial kitchens tend to use pre-rinse spray valves (PRSVs) to remove food waste from dishes prior to dishwashing. Their concentrated jet of hot water reduces the scraping and scouring necessary before sending dishes to the dishwasher. Food service establishments run nearly 53 billion gallons of hot water through PRSVs each year. Replacing an old, inefficient pre-rinse spray valve with a high-efficiency, DOE-compliant model can save a typical commercial kitchen more than 7,000 gallons of water per year. Commercial dishwasher design can vary greatly depending on how many employees, visitors, and/or customers are served. Smaller facilities serving fewer than 60 people per day often hand-wash dishes or use undercounter dishwashers similar to residential units. As the number of customers served increases, stationary door- or hood-type commercial dishwashers are selected by establishments serving 100 people or more per day. These may be manually front-loaded with racks or have conveyor belts that automatically run dishes through. The most efficient commercial dishwashers reuse water from one wash load to the next, using one or more holding tanks. This not only reduces water use, but also reduces the amount of energy required to heat additional water. Commercial dishwashers that have earned the ENERGY STAR® rating are on average 40% percent more energy and water-efficient than standard models. ENERGY STAR®-certified dishwashers have features such as advanced controls and diagnostics, improved nozzles and rinse arm design to save $1,300 annually and $16,000 over the product lifetime when compared to standard dishwashers. Restaurants can further improve dishwashing efficiency with the following inexpensive good practices: • Run fully loaded dish racks through the dish machine. Cutting the number of wash cycles can save hundreds of dollars annually in energy, water, and chemical charges. • Pay attention to the dishwasher’s pressure gauge—if it’s showing pressure above 25 psi, it’s likely using much more water than necessary. Most commercial dishwashers require only around 20 psi. • Conveyor-style dishwashers should be used in auto mode, which saves electricity by running the conveyor motor only when needed. • Install a booster heater for high-temperature dishwashers rather than turning the facility’s water heater up. • Use a commercial ventilation hood over high temperature washers and switch it off during idle periods or when washing is complete. • Replace any torn wash curtains or worn spray nozzles. • Repair leaks and perform regular maintenance. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, Southwest Public Power District wants to help food service establishments make the most from the energy needed to clean and sanitize kitchenware and dishes. For additional ways on how you can make your home or business EnergyWiseSM,contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for more information.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer